Sliding into Kerry

view from the road

My musical acquaintances might think that this post is all about Kerry slides – lively tunes which get aired sometimes at our session: here are some fine examples played by Éamonn O’Riordan, Tony O’Connell, Brian Mooney and Gearóid Ó Duinnín…

But they would be mistaken: this is the tale of a little wintry but sunlit exploration which Finola and I undertook on the eve of St Gobnait’s feast day. It involved crossing the border into Kerry, something which is not lightly done by Corkonians because of traditional rivalries (mainly on the Hurling and Gaelic Football fields). So we had to ‘slide’ over into the Kingdom and hope that none of our friends noticed our temporary absence.

Sheep flock on road

We had things to do in Kenmare (have a look at Finola’s post), but afterwards we took to the byways. We knew there is a remote, lonely and very beautiful road winding up over the mountains, shared only by a few wandering sheep, and determined that would be our way home. We headed off to the tiny settlement of Kilgarvan and there saw a signpost that said Bantry 25: we turned on to the boreen that follows the Roughty and Slaheny Rivers and immediately entered another world.

Macaura's Grave signpost

We hadn’t gone very far along the road before we were intrigued by a brown signpost – beckoning us along an even smaller boreen. Macaura’s Grave: neither of us had any idea who Macaura was, so we had to go and investigate. After about ten minutes of twisting and turning and trying to guess which of the unmarked and unsigned lanes to take whenever we came to a junction, we found ourselves back on the road we had just left! By now we were determined that Macaura was not going to get the better of us, so we flagged down a young lad who was in charge of a fine red tractor. He was very forthcoming, and told us that the grave was well worth a visit, then proceeded to give us a set of instructions that involved turning this way and that – signifying to the air which ways these were. Not a little confused, we drove off again.

View from near grave

It was no hardship to be exploring the magnificent countryside in south Kerry: the views were breathtaking and the variety of colours on the mountains in sunlight and shadow this early spring day was astonishing. A bit more head scratching and a few more twists and turns down a stony trackway and we were there!

Modern sign

Now we knew. Not only had we found the grave of Macaura – that’s the old Irish way of saying McCarthy – but we had come across the site of one of the most significant battles in Irish history! The Irish chieftain, Finín McCarthy (named as the ‘King’ of Kerry – and that’s why Kerry is known as The Kingdom), joined up with the O’Sullivan Beare from West Cork and the O’Donoghues from Ross Castle to rout the Normans, who were led by Sir John Fitzgerald. This battle took place in 1261. 1261! Over eight hundred years ago… This confirms my thesis that you can’t go anywhere in Ireland without stumbling over history. The Anglo-Normans had claimed their stake in Ireland from 1169 when Strongbow (Richard de Clare) arrived with the blessing of Henry II (and the Pope – who saw the Irish church charting its own course and not following Rome!). Reasonably, the Irish chieftains objected to the Norman invaders, hence this confrontation.

Grave Inscription

In the Journal of the Cork Historical and Archaeological Society, 1961, Volume 66, there is a comprehensive – but not entirely enlightening – article by Diarmud Ó Murchadha on The Battle of Callan:

…Finghin Mac Carthy had learned much from his opponents during his years of conflict, while he had the added advantage of knowing intimately the territory over which he fought. At Callann he chose his battleground, at a spot where a mountainy river called the Slaheny joins the Ruachtach, close by the castle of Ardtully. No doubt he reckoned that here the heavily-armoured cavalry of the invader could be used to the least advantage. Battle was then joined and Finghin mac Domhnaill mic Charthaigh emerged victorious… Unfortunately no details of the conflict – apart from the names of those slain – are available. Incidentally, the fullest account of the battle is given, not by the Munster annals, but by the Annals of Loch Ce and Annals of Connacht:

AD 1261 – A great war was waged, and numerous injuries were committed in this year by Finghin, son of Domhnall Mac Carthaigh, and his brothers, against the foreigners.There was a great hosting by the Geraldines into Desmond, to attack Mac Carthy, but it was Mac Carthy attacked them, and defeated them…

The Annals go on to record the fact that Finghin followed up his victory at Callan by attacking and destroying every Norman castle and stronghold in Munster. As the sign over Macaura’s Grave tells us: …he liberated the Kingdom of South Munster from Norman domination forever…


But who is it that the Macaura Grave celebrates? ‘Donal, Chieftain of the McCarthy Fineens’… Presumably this is not the Finghin, who, according to the Annals, went on after the battle to rout the Normans out of Munster: the Finghin who is known as mac Domhnaill mic Charthaigh – ‘son of Domhnaill MacCarthy’. Could it be his father (Donal is an Anglicisation of Domhnaill)? In which case it was the clan chieftain who died in the battle and his son who went on to clear the Normans out of Kerry. There are a few accounts of the battle, but none of them clarify this. It all happened a long time ago, of course, and memories fade. In fact this site was all but lost: an article in The Kerryman takes up the story, illustrated by this photograph:


…The men of Kilgarvan were busy in November 1981 – making a road fit for a king! The king in question is Finín McCarthy who died in 1261 after being the first Irish king to defeat the Normans, thus giving Kerry the name of the Kingdom… Legend has it that after the battle, McCarthy stood on a ditch to survey the battlefield, when a dying Norman killed him with an arrow. McCarthy was buried on the spot, and a large slab was used as a headstone. The grave now lies on a narrow little road in Callan beside Tom Healy’s farm. When retired Dublin civil servant Frank Shanley spent a recent holiday in Kilgarvan he went looking for the grave, which was buried by shrubs and bushes… He decided to organise a meeting of the local men to try and get them to improve the grave and access to it…. It was Dan O’Sullivan, Down, Tom O’Donoghue and Michael Teehan, who were slaving away widening the roadway from eight feet wide to 16 feet, when he visited in November 1981… Apart from the narrow roadway and the briars and trees, there was also a steady stream of water running over the grave, but the men got the pipes to divert the water in another direction. There was no actual inscription on the grave that the men could read, but there were a series of lines and crosses on it, which they hope will be examined by an expert…. They hope that when they have the roadway to the grave cleared, they can erect signposts to the grave, and notices around the grave telling the history of McCarthy’s death in the battle of Callan…

Macaura's Grave

So we have the ‘men of Kilgarvan’ – back in the 80s – to thank for leading us to this now tranquil but historically turmoiled and fascinating spot. There is still the puzzle of which McCarthy is commemorated: perhaps we’ll never know for sure. But it’s not bad to have access to a story which has survived for the best part of nine hundred years – just about within living memory by Irish standards! After this excitement we continued our journey over the spectacular Coomhola road through the mountains towards Ballylickey and gently slid back into West Cork. If you can cope with very narrow roads (it’s not so bad – we only saw two other vehicles, both local farmers, in the whole 25 kilometres!) it’s one of the great road trips of Ireland – with the added bonus of a history lesson to be taken in.

Beyond the tunnel

Sheep on the edge

The Winding Road

22 thoughts

  1. Still a great post about Kerry history. My paternal bloodline is O’Sullivan that links back to Dunloe and Kenmare vicinities. Through deep YDNA testing I find Sugrue and McGillicuddy distant relations together with Sullivans. After this battle Dunloe Castle remained Gaelic O’Sullivan and Sugrue for 300+ years! Visiting Ireland again later this year and will try to find this spot. Thanks. Ed Smith (O’Sullivan)

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Robert, I just read your article this evening and shared the following post with my family on our McCarty Clan FB site…I nearly fell over reading of your similar experience and by someone of your name! We drove Priests Leap the day before and were awed by this area. Merry Christmas from across the pond!

    On our first trip to Ireland we undertook a little mission to find a battle site and grave of an old Irish king from the McCarty clan. This was in the vicinity of Kilgarvan in County Kerry. I had read about the battle and the gravesite several years ago while doing research on our clan and had always wanted to find it. This McCarty chief had kept the English/Norman invaders from dominating the very southern, mountainous part of Ireland. This was in the 1200’s and this area remained free from English rule for centuries to come. This mountainous, coastal area is still called “Rebel Country” and “The Kingdom”.

    I just found this article today and found it really interesting to read as Riley, Bobby and I had almost exactly the same experience trying to find this spot in a very magical and rugged part of the island.

    We even had the same experience the author had while driving on these twisty lanes. We found the site by asking a man that was trimming hedges along the road. It took us a while to follow his directions to the exact spot.

    The Slaheny river runs along the road and you can here little waterfalls as you drive along the heavily tree lined road.

    There is an antique auto museum very close by and we saw these old cars pass by at one point, they were just out for a drive in some of their collection….

    Read the article when you have time, I think you’ll find it interesting. Attached are my photos from that day.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Hi Robert,
    I intend to write something for about the battle of Callan, mainly as background to the poem that starts “And this is thy grave, McCaura.” I request permission to use one or two of your photographs please. Btw, we (I come from Kenmare) were told that Fineen was actually killed in a small skirmish against one of his sub-tribes after Callan. Talking about Tintean, have a look at some of our back issues – we would love to get something from the kind of materials you publish. That invitation is open to all your readers also. Our email is



  4. What a discovery! I love unearthing unexpected treasure like that! I wonder which Mccarthy it is… such an exciting victory, and yet the site is so tranquil and unassuming. Its hard to imagine the carnage of war taking place there. Thanks for sharing your road trip with us. 😊

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Lovely post Robert. Your bit of motoring there is reminiscent of how driving in the west used to be. You never got anywhere fast but that never seemed to matter too much. Pleased to see one of the many McCarthys around there getting due recognition thanks to the Kilgarvan crowd.

    Liked by 1 person

  6. I would love to know if there is a CD or other “transportable” compilation of the music from your sessions? I’d like one to listen to as I drive around this island — sure beats the news from Washington, DC! Some of the posts show places I have had the good fortune to visit, or sail near. I love them all. Ginny

    Liked by 1 person

    • Hello Ginny – we’ve never recorded our own sessions but there’s plenty of good Irish music around on CD – or to download. Look for the really traditional musicians, rather than the compilations. Good ones are Martin Hayes, Jackie Daly, Seamus Begley, Noel Hill – the list is long!


      • Thanks for the response about CD’s that are available of Irish music. I do have some CDs, and access to many more. I’ve even done several WGBH (our local National Public Radio station) Celtic Music Learning Tours to Ireland. However a lot of the Irish music is a bit dirge like — the mournful songs of unrequited love or other unhappy subjects — and I love the happy sort of lively music that was in the segment that you attached. Your session group played cheery music, or at least music with some life to it and in these parlous times (I’m in America and NOT happy with what is going on in Washington, D. C.) anything that I can do to cheer up a bit is very welcome. If you ever decide to make a CD, you might find some purchasers over here!

        Liked by 1 person

    • Ginny – you clearly need cheering up! I think I would, too, if I was living over there at the moment… The musicians I mentioned previously all play the dance music – mainly lively and cheering. You have to have one or two slow airs in any set to give a contrast. Look for jigs, reels, slides and polkas!


  7. It’s always worth leaving the beaten track for a bit of an explore! It’s a rather nice grave, enhanced by the daffs and a remarkable, if little known story. What route home though – is this the Priest’s Leap road or a different road less travelled?

    Liked by 1 person

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