Castle Island – Facts and Fictions

That’s Castle Island, above, beyond Gaelic Lord Finnin O’Mahony’s dilapidated realm at the entrance to Rossbrin Cove, in Roaringwater Bay. In the fifteenth century there would have been a hive of activity at Rossbrin: quays alive with fishing activity, boats being repaired and prepared, houses, stores and cellars – all full. Castle Island itself would also have been inhabited in those days, as were many of Carbery’s Hundred Isles. Skeam West – to the east of Castle, and roughly in the centre of all the islands of Roaringwater Bay, has the remnants of a church said to date from the ninth century (Fahy – Journal of the Cork Historical and Archaeological Society, Volume 67, 1962).

Upper – Castle island with its close neighbours in Roaringwater Bay; lower – the ancient church on nearby Skeam West, drawn by Fahy in 1962 (courtesy Cork Historical and Archaeological Society). Fahy suggested a ninth century date for this structure, although other commentators have suggested an earlier origin, possibly even before St Patrick’s time

We set foot on Castle Island for the first time in August of last year – during a reprieve in the Covid lockdown measures. Those days seem halcyon now, compared to our current scourge and severe restrictions. We have not been able to return, but I am setting out to bring my reporting a bit more up to date, as I have been provided with further information from a range of sources.

Approaching Castle Island in 2020: upper – view of the island from the shore in Rossbrin townland; centre – proceeding to the island from Rossbrin Cove; lower – the quay on Castle Island, reportedly built in the early 20th century by the Congested Districts Board: “…the beach that it is laid upon was the best natural landing point on the island, well sheltered from the Atlantic swell …” (Mark Wycliff Samuel – The Tower House of West Cork, UCL 1998)

The history of the population of Castle Island is enigmatic and somewhat contradictory. Here is a quotation copied from the Ireland Byways site but uncredited and undated; I can find no other link containing the same information, but it must originally have been written when the island was still inhabited:

. . . Castle Island (Meadhon Inis – “middle island”) lies about 2km offshore, east of the mouth of Schull Harbour on the Mizen Peninsula. The island derives its English name from a ruined C14th Tower House, one of 12 built by the powerful O’Mahony clan in the area. The 1837 census recorded 89 people living on the island. At present there are fewer than 30 permanent residents, who make their living from farming . . .

quoted by ireland byways.co.uk

You will find some accounts which suggest that Castle Island was inhabited only up to the 1870s. These are incorrect: there is no doubt that the island was the home to a number of families in the 1890s as they suffered evictions then. It also seems questionable that the expense of constructing a substantial pier could have been justified only for the benefit of those who might run their cattle and sheep on a deserted island (as happens today). It is possible, therefore, that regular population of the island continued into the early years of the 20th century.

The remains of substantial houses exist on Castle island today: some do not seem to be as ruinous as would be expected if they had been unoccupied for well over 100 years

Recently, my attention was drawn to a Land Register folio recording the title for one of the parcels of land comprising Castle Island: ” . . . a burden, dated April 14, 1904, indicates that the property was transferred at that time subject to the right of . . . Jeremiah Regan to be supported clothed and maintained in the dwellinghouse on the said lands . . . ” That would imply, for sure, that there was at least one person who had the right to live on the island in the twentieth century.

Details from the ruined houses at the settlement of Wester, Castle Island: upper – brick and render chimney stack in reasonable condition; centre – elements from timber window frames still in existence; lower – traces of paint on an internal rendered wall

Accounts of the evictions which occurred on Castle Island have been well summarised in a Mizen Journal article by Liam O’Regan in Volume 6, 1998. The article is much too long to be included here, but it’s worth anyone’s while ferreting it out to get a vividly descriptive picture of the island in the 1890s.

Here’s a brief summary of the eviction story: the villain is on the left, above – he is Thomas Henry Marmion JP, principle landlord of Castle Island. He lived from 1839 to 1921 and – incidentally – his father (who had the same name) was said to have been responsible for providing the ‘soup kitchen’ at the Steam Mill, Skibbereen during the Great Famine of the 1840s. Notwithstanding this, recorded history does not have much that’s good to say about the Marmions, who in the eighteenth century had been land agents for the Bechers and Townsends. At the beginning of March 1890 (as reported, somewhat floridly, in the Cork County Eagle):

. . . A few days ago, the sheriff’s officer from Skibbereen made his appearance in Schull, surrounded by a force of police, on an evicting expedition. After a short delay, they proceeded to the water’s edge where their galleys were found to await them and the sheriff’s representative having secured himself in one of the crafts, the whole party proceeded to sea for a distance of some three miles when they landed on Castle island. This wild and sea-washed home of a few small farmers and fishermen is the property of Mr Thomas Henry Marmion . . . whose interest in recent years appears more of an incumberance or embarrassment than any advantage as the poor creatures who live in it (misnamed farmers) and on the many islands surrounding it, have to live chiefly on the profits of the sea. The fortification of Jerry Nugent was the first laid siege by the invading army, Jerry’s offence being that he owed a few years’ rent which he found impossible to pay and he was, therefore, sent adrift on the sea-washed rocks where he had a full view of the passing emigrant ships which will probably bear him away to seek out a livelihood in the land of the stranger . . .

Cork County Eagle, march 7th, 1890

There’s much more – and it’s a harrowing story – not untypical, of course, of what was happening all over Ireland during the nineteenth century. In the portrait gallery, above, the figure in the middle is a ‘hero’: he is William O’Brien MP, a founder of the National League who, in September 1890 visited West Cork and held a meeting on Middle Calf island to support the case of tenants evicted from Castle Island and the Calves. On the right is James Gilhooly, MP, Bantry, who was chairman of the ‘All for Ireland League’ and who strongly supported the Castle Island tenants and attended many official meetings on their behalf. Matters rumbled on laboriously into the mid 1890s: eventually, it seems that the introduction of new land purchase acts (benefitting tenants), enabled six tenants to return to, and continue to occupy, Castle Island. As yet I have found no further records to help us establish how long occupation of this sparse rocky outcrop in Roaringwater Bay continued into the twentieth century.

The Mizen Journal, Volume 5 1997, has published a study by Anthony Beese of the place-names on Castle Island. I have been unable to locate this article online, but here is Anthony’s excellent map, above.

When we visited the island on a brooding August day we sensed its many ghosts, perhaps including those who returned over a hundred years ago and, possibly, lived out their working lives there. I have called this post ‘Facts and Fictions’ . . . You have had the facts. After I wrote my first post, last year, I received a communication from a writer: William Wall. I was delighted to learn that he had written a book – Grace’s Day – published in 2018, part of which is set on Castle Island. I obtained the book and read it avidly: it has opened up for me a new dimension in the story of the island – and it’s thoroughly believable.

. . . A long time ago I had two sisters and we lived on an island. There was me and Jeannie and Em. They called me Grace, but I have never had much of that. I was an awkward child. I still am all these years later. Our house had two doors, one to the south, one to the north. Its garden looked towards the setting sun. It was a garden of apple trees and fuchsia and everything in it leaned away from the wind. Dry stone walls encircled it and sheep and children broke them down. My mother lived there with us. Boats came and went bringing food and sometimes sheep, and there were times when we lived by catching fish and rabbits, though we were not so good at either . . .

Grace’s Day – a novel by William Wall, published by new island books 2018

William Wall is familiar with West Cork: he has stayed here many times, and has visited Castle Island. It’s not just the island, but the whole story of 1960s West Cork that has been his inspiration. Readers of this Journal will be aware of my own interest in the days when Ballydehob became the hub of an artists’ community: I have helped to set up the Ballydehob Arts Museum, which has celebrated this era and is now in ‘suspended animation’ due to the Covid outbreak. I also look after a website for the Museum. Grace’s Day is set in this era, and follows the unconventional lives of a family who is ‘getting away from it all’ and trying to survive following the then prevalent bible of self-sufficiency. It’s perfectly feasible that an abandoned island in Roaringwater Bay could be the setting for such a romantic pursuit of ideals. I won’t give away any spoilers, but one more extract could help to persuade you that this book is for you. You should find it in all good bookshops: please support them in these tricky times.

. . . One day on our island my sister Jeannie ran in to say that she had seen a whale in the sound and I ran out after her, my mother calling me: Grace, it’s your day, take Em. But I was too excited. And there were three fin whales making their way into the rising tide. We heard their breathing. It carried perfectly in the still grey air, reflected back at us now by the low cloud. The sea was still and burnished. We ran along the rocks watching for their breaching. We decided it was a mother, a father and a calf. They were in no hurry. When we reached the beacon, a small unlit concrete marker indicating the western edge of the island, we watched them breaching and diving into the distance until we could see them no more. But they left behind their calmness and the unhurried but forceful sound of their blows . . .

GRACE’S DAY – A NOVEL BY WILLIAM WALL, PUBLISHED BY NEW ISLAND BOOKS 2018
Our own view of Castle Island in the distance, surreally shadowed by the full moon’s glimmer, while the Fastnet Lighthouse winks away on the horizon

32 thoughts

  1. My paternal grandfather, Paddy or Patty O’Regan, was born and raised on Castle Island. He was the youngest of 11 children, and was born circa WW1. His parents were tenant farmers or farm laborers and they lived in the house closest to the stone wharf. He ran away from home at age 15 to join a Norwegian cutter, presumably during a port call to Scull. He remained illiterate all his life. In 2000 I visited the island due to the kindness of a local ferry operator, an elderly man named Ciaran (spelling?). He knew the family decades before and was able to provide many details about their life on the island, all of which tallied with the stories handed down through my mother. In 2000 the house was used as sheep pens. I am happy to correspond via email.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Hi Robert,
    If you wish you can give my contact details privately to Jackie. I also figure I can add to Charlotte Nugent’s family history. I’ll message them both now.

    Kind regards and thank you for your wonderful posts.

    Christine

    Liked by 2 people

  3. Hi there and thank you for such an interesting article and beautiful imagery. I know where I shall be heading after the lockdown!
    I wanted to reach out to the Leahys who commented in this article. I have done DNA testing and received matches to Leahys of around this area and wondered if any of the Leahys commenting on this page are willing to share any info they might have? I am doing this for my father´s 80th in 2 weeks and apart from 3 DNA confirmations, I just can´t get the paper trail connection!
    Go raibh maith agaibh!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Hi Robert,

    Both my Grandfather and Great Grandfather died on Castle island in 1935. To the best of my knowledge, my own Dad was the last man to leave the island. We travelled there many times in my childhood and I continue to visit when I can. I have spent many years researching my family history and would be happy to speak with you at some stage if it would help.

    Regards,

    Christine

    Liked by 1 person

    • Very many thanks, Christine. You are adding to the whole story – wonderful! Leahy seems to be the dominant name in the census returns that I have turned up so far. A chat would be great…

      Like

    • Dear Christine,
      How interesting to read your note; my grandfather, Daniel Leahy, was also born on Castle Island and died in 1932. A relative perhaps of your grandfather? I am very curious to know!

      Regards,
      Jane

      Like

      • Hi Jane, I’m not sure if you received my earlier post. Can you confirm when you get a chance.
        Regards,
        Christine

        Like

      • Hi Jane ernest. Just to let you know that we have a Leahy Genealogy and Family Research Group on facebook- please look us up- we have members who are from James The Kerryman Leahy…..

        Like

  5. See report in Southern Star April 10, 1937 page 1 – ‘Pitiable Plight of West Cork Islanders’.
    Commented on your previous article to state that my granduncle was the last inhabitant to leave about 1948.
    Diarmuid.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Thank you, Diarmuid – I will certainly follow up those leads to try and get the overall history as complete as possible. I’m working on other information which has come in as well. Do you have any reflections on island life passed down from your granduncle?

      Like

  6. Hi there,
    I am interested in all this history because my husband was John Drewen Nugent. You might have noticed in the passage about the evictions that a Jerry Nugent is mentioned. This man is undoubtedly an ancestor of my late husband and my daughter. I have birth records that I discovered doing genealogical research that confirm that there were people living on Castle Island probably in the 20’s or 30’s.
    Also, my mother in law claims to have visited relatives there in the late 40’s (1948) on the occasion of her first visit to Ireland. I also have pictures of graves taken in the graveyard of the Schull cemetery specifying that they are Castle Island Nugents. So don’t know when the island became uninhabited but it must have been as late as the 40’s or the 50’s.
    Very interested in anything you have about the area, the islands or surrounding
    environments.
    Great stuff, thank you.
    Charlotte Nugent

    Liked by 1 person

    • Charlotte, it’s great to hear about your direct links with the island. I have now established from a few sources that it was certainly inhabited well into the twentieth century, and this ties in with our observations when we visited. I think I will have enough material to put together a third post in the near future, bringing the story up to date as far as possible.

      Like

  7. My mother is sure this is the Island of my ancestors. I’m descended from these folks and visited with her all the Nugent-related sites around West Cork near Schull and Skibbereen. Thank you for these pictures and write up! I’d love to find a way to visit the actual island someday, we only spotted it from the banks when we came in 2000 from New York.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Good to hear from you, Edie. It’s wonderful that more information is coming to light all the time. I had a conversation only today with someone local who had many more stories to tell. I’ll be writing them up soon.

      Like

  8. I love the emails. Thank you! But could you change the address, please to jmzkeogh@gmail.com?

    ATB, Jackie

    Jackie Keogh Reporter @ The Southern Star Ilen Street Skibbereen West Cork Mobile: 087 9673868 Twitter: @KeoghJackie Email: jackie.keogh@southernstar.ie

    On Sun, 24 Jan 2021 at 18:01, Roaringwater Journal wrote:

    > Robert posted: ” That’s Castle Island, above, beyond Gaelic Lord Finnin > O’Mahony’s dilapidated realm at the entrance to Rossbrin Cove, in > Roaringwater Bay. In the fifteenth century there would have been a hive of > activity at Rossbrin: quays alive with fishing activit” >

    Liked by 1 person

  9. Hi Robert, another fascinating post on West Cork. If u search the Census Search facility on The National Archives website and select the 1901 and 1911 census and enter Cork and Castle Island in the respective options, you will get the occupants for those years.

    Liked by 1 person

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